VitaReach VITAREACH

Installation

This is a living document. Part 1 covers TroveBlade assembly. Part 2 — frame and complete wall installation — will follow. Steps are numbered sequentially across both parts.

PART 1

TroveBlade Assembly

1.1

Loctite Application

Before installation, apply one drop of Loctite 243 to the first 2–3 threads of every bolt. Let them sit for a few minutes to tack up before use.

VIDEO Short clip, no sound — applying Loctite to bolt threads
1.2

Bolt Sizing

Separate your M5×8mm and M5×10mm bolts before you start.

Rule of thumb Use 10mm bolts with aluminum brackets (~4mm thick). Use 8mm bolts with steel brackets (~2mm thick).
PHOTO 8mm and 10mm bolts side by side, labeled
1.3

Sliding T-Nuts

To use a sliding T-nut, slide the required quantity in through the open edge of the 2020 profile, align your bracket, and bolt it in. Sliding nuts are a little harder to work with than drop-ins, but stronger. We use them where it matters.

VIDEO Short clip, no sound — sliding T-nuts into profile edge
1.4

Drop-In T-Nuts

Prepare the bracket with all bolts and T-nuts assembled. Align T-nuts with the targeted slot of the 2020 profile and finger-tighten. Then back each bolt out about one turn — if the bolt head isn't flush with the bracket, the nut didn't drop into the slot. Push the bolts in, confirm the heads are flush, then hand-tighten everything down.

You do not need to fully remove the bolt to do this — and on vertical profiles, doing so is unnecessary and can let the T-nut fall out of position.

Drop-in T-nut lock — you'll see this term throughout the instructions. It means: nuts into the profile's slot, long leg of the hex key into the bolt, two full turns back, push bolt in to confirm the T-nut is seated, then finger-tighten.
VIDEO Short clip, no sound — drop-in T-nut installation
1.5

Choosing a Board

To assemble a TroveBlade, you need a board to attach it to. In this example, we use a metal pegboard.

Advantage

Consistent, parallel rows of ¼" holes.

Disadvantage

Those holes don't usually align with the slide's mounting holes.

Our solution: we provide a 2020 profile adapter cut to the slide's length minus 2", so any metal pegboard can be attached from its back side.

If you're using IKEA SKÅDIS or another plastic pegboard, note that the hole pattern is different. In every case, you have two options for attaching your board to the slide: through the 2020 adapter (M5×8mm bolts and T-nuts included for metal pegboard attachment), or directly to the slide.

Tips for direct attachment to a slide
  • Avoid using vertical holes where possible. At least one connection should use a normal (round) hole, with the rest horizontal if needed.
  • Most slides have adjustable lips — avoid mounting through holes inside those lips. At least 2 connection points should land in the solid body of the slide, not the lip.
  • Two connection points are structurally sufficient, but we recommend a third — for peace of mind.
1.6

Positioning the Cantilever Arms

You'll use two cantilever arms per board — one top, one bottom. Calculate both positions carefully before drilling or bolting anything down.

1.6.1

Bottom Connection

Mount as low as possible, but leave room for a future bottom shelf connection — even if you're starting with an open TroveBlade, you may want to upgrade to a Plus later.

  • Confirm the slide does not extend past the bottom edge of your board.
  • For metal pegboards, confirm there's room to fit a nut between the slide and the bottom flange of the pegboard.
  • For boards without a flange, confirm you can attach a small L-bracket for a future bottom shelf connection. It's best to mount that bracket on the cantilever side, keeping the opposite side clear.
1.6.2

Top Connection

Mount as high as possible. The only limit is the supporting cantilever arm itself — 1 meter (39.37") long, which covers most board sizes. The greater the distance between the two cantilevers, the stronger the system.

1.6.3

Going Higher

If you want to have a board taller than the cantilever's range allows, use a stronger board and space the cantilevers up to 1 meter apart — the maximum the arm supports.

At your own risk. We are not responsible for the consequences. Keep in mind: the higher something is mounted, the more kinetic energy it carries if it falls. A dumbbell or bowling ball dropping from height hits a lot harder than the same item falling from a low shelf. Your board moves during use — secure everything carefully, especially at height. And seriously: consider a helmet when working up there.
1.6.4

Matching Heights Across TroveBlades

We strongly recommend keeping all TroveBlades in a system at the same height. The provided hardware is designed to treat your wall as a single frame, which makes final adjustment — especially squaring to a 90° wall — much easier.

The correct setup: when you pull two TroveBlades (especially TroveBlade Plus units) out together, the distance between them stays constant. This is far easier to achieve with a single consistent frame height.

In the frame installation instructions, we suggest setting up the leftmost and rightmost TroveBlades first to correctly establish the top and bottom frame profiles. The remaining TroveBlades should fit snugly between those profiles, so all TroveBlades in a standard installation should be at the same height.

1.7

Attaching the Metal Pegboard to the Cantilever

Each cantilever has a single hole on one side, indicating the back of the TroveBlade:

  • Plain hole — goes on top.
  • Hole shaped for a socket head bolt — goes on the bottom.
PHOTO Top vs. bottom cantilever — hole comparison

Use the provided 3 M5×8mm bolts and sliding nuts per cantilever. Slide nuts into the profile's slot and finger-tighten bolts into nuts. Make sure that the front of the board passes the slider's end.

PHOTO Both cantilevers attached
1.8

Selecting the TroveBlade Height

For a standard installation where all TroveBlades are the same height, collect all 2020 profiles with a threaded end — there should be 2 per TroveBlade. Then:

  1. Using an M6×25mm bolt, attach one profile to the top cantilever through its hole. Make sure the profile's edge is touching the top cantilever. The profile should now be resting over the bottom cantilever.
  2. Mark the cutting line slightly above the contact point with the bottom cantilever — approximately 1mm. After cutting, the profile should fit between both cantilevers.
  3. Unscrew the M6×25mm bolt and remove the marked profile.
  4. Line up all remaining 2020 profiles, making sure all threaded edges face the same direction. Mark them all to the same cutting length as the original marked profile.
  5. Double-check that the part being cut does not have a threaded edge. If a threaded end would be cut off, tap an M6×10mm thread into the center hole of one of the remaining edges.
If you're cutting the profiles yourself, you can cut now. If you want to cut all profiles in one session elsewhere, measure your wall first and check whether the provided framing profiles (without threaded holes) also need trimming. Refer to frame installation instructions for that.
This page is a work in progress — additional assembly steps will be added here. Part 2: Frame & Wall Installation — coming soon