This is a living document. Part 1 covers Pull-Out Board Kit assembly. Part 2 covers frame and wall installation. Steps are numbered sequentially across both parts. General techniques you'll use throughout — T-nuts, tightening, choosing a board, attaching arms to a board, near-wall setup — live on the separate Techniques page; link back here whenever they're relevant.
Several bolts are provided with the system, from left to right:
For a standard installation where all kits are the same height, collect all 2020 profiles with a threaded end — there should be 2 per kit, one with 4 holes on a side (the bottom spine rail) and one without (the top spine rail). Then:
Once the spine rails are cut, continue with installation.
Join both spine rails with 4 M5×18mm bolts and sliding nuts, threaded ends facing opposite directions. Slide 4 T-nuts into the spine. Attach both arms to the spine using 2 M6×25mm bolts. Tighten 4 M5×18mm bolts.
This is the best time to verify the kit's side positioning before adding more brackets.
Tighten 2 M6×25mm bolts.
Lay out the spine rails. Position the board/arms assembly with the top on your left, facing away from you. Set the top spine rail (no side holes) in front, threaded-center edge to the left; set the bottom spine rail (4 side holes) closer to you, threaded-center edge to the right, socket heads facing up. Align both edges.
Join the spine rails. In the top spine rail, position the sliding T-nuts to line up with the bottom spine rail's 4 side holes, then set the bottom spine rail on top of the top spine rail. Drop 4 M5×18mm bolts through the holes and screw them into the sliding T-nuts. Leave them loose — the spine rails need to still slide against each other.
Oops, we forgot to film this part. Slide 4 T-nuts into the spine for a future Corner Bracket Gussets connection.
Attach arms. Rotate the spine so the bottom spine rail is closer to you, then position the assembly against the board/arms: the top spine rail's threaded hole aligns with the top arm's hole on the left, and the bottom spine rail's threaded hole aligns with the bottom arm's hole on the right. Insert M6×25mm bolts into the holes in the bottom and top arms and screw them into the spine. Tighten them.
Check the movement. Move the kit assembly back and forth a few times to confirm it slides freely.
Tighten all 4 M5×18mm bolts.
Assemble 2 Corner Bracket Gussets using 8 M5×10mm bolts and sliding T-nuts. Finish by tightening all 8 bolts to make sure both arms and the spine are square.
The top arm has a threaded hole for an M5×18mm bolt. For security reasons, this connection is reinforced with a sliding T-nut as well.
Prepare 2 sliding T-nuts and slide one over the threaded hole.
Connect the Corner Bracket Gusset using M5×10mm and M5×18mm bolts. Make sure the back of the Corner Bracket Gusset is aligned with the arm's butt. Tighten bolts.
Connect the Corner Bracket Gusset to the bottom arm using 2 M5×10mm bolts, and make sure the back of the Corner Bracket Gusset is aligned with the arm's butt. Tighten bolts.
Open and close the sliders several times. Make sure they move freely without restriction.
Measure the distance between the lower part of the top arm and the bottom of the board. In our case, it's 30.5" — we'll use this to find the Top Frame Location.
Rotate the kit and tighten the board bolts in a cross pattern as shown.
Disconnect the inner rail of each ball-bearing slider — the part attached to the board — from the rest of the kit. This makes the kit much easier to handle during framing.
A heads-up before you start: if the wall in some of these photos looks like it's been through a few too many rounds, that's on us — it's what happens when you're prototyping dozens of different framings before landing on the one you're about to install. Please be careful; we didn't.
In our case, the top rail (2020 profile) is installed right above 30.5" from the bottom of the board. Where the bottom of the system sits is up to you — the simple kitchen rule is 35.5–37.5" (countertop included) for base cabinets, plus 18" to the bottom of the wall cabinets, which in our case is the bottom of the board. That puts the bottom of the board at 53.5–55.5". Add the 30.5" measured above, and you have your top rail location. Your setup isn't necessarily a kitchen, though, so this is a starting point, not a rule.
Use a level and mark this line across your wall — the top rail sits just above it.
You should receive two 2020 wall rails and stud anchors for your package — 24" rails and 4 stud anchors with 1 kit, 36" rails and 6 stud anchors with 2 kits, 48" rails and 8 stud anchors with 3 kits. Mark your studs and make sure the rails span the distance between the leftmost and rightmost studs you will anchor to.
Assemble the top and bottom rails using the provided straight-line connectors — two per joint, on opposite slots. If you already cut these rails together with your spine rails in 1.1, they're the right length — just install them. If you didn't, measure your wall now, mark the rails to length, and cut them before continuing.
If you have straight-line connectors, position them on the top and the bottom. Find your studs and mark their locations on the top rail. Attach the top stud anchors at those marks using flat socket head M5×8mm bolts with washers, and finger-tighten them. You can attach the bottom anchors now, or wait and attach them later during kit adjustment — just make sure there's one sliding T-nut per stud in the bottom slot for the future bottom anchor connections. If a mark collides with a straight-line connector, remove the closest mounting screw and use that space as a nut for the stud anchor, top and bottom.
Calculate how many sliding T-nuts you'll need for the top rail in case its edges will be blocked during installation (a wall-to-wall scenario). For the front slot of the top rail, each kit requires 2 sliding T-nuts. Slide all T-nuts in.
Position the top rail right above the marked line. Use #14×3" lag screws to attach only the top anchors to studs. If you attached the bottom anchors, leave them as is for now.
Use two M5×10mm bolts to finger-tighten the top arm's Corner Bracket Gusset — acting here as a Frame Connector — to 2 sliding T-nuts in the top rail's front slot. Leave it loose enough to slide the kit along the rail for later adjustment.
If this kit is near a wall, slide it toward the wall and tighten all bolts.
Attach one more kit on the opposite side at its approximate location.
In our example, it's the left, since we have a kit near the wall there, and it's already set.
Decide roughly where each one should be located, then finger-tighten 3 M5×10mm bolts for the top rail and 2 M5×8mm bolts for the bottom rail into sliding T-nuts.
Every stud gets two anchors — the lower one is already in place from Prepare the Top Rail. Wherever a stud now falls between two kits, add its upper anchor too, with an M5×8mm bolt into a sliding T-nut.
If there is no interference between the kits and the top anchors, finalize the top rail. Otherwise, see If a Kit Meets the Stud, then finalize the top rail.
Add boards to the kits. Make sure they open and close smoothly.
If your setup has front board additions, add a front board.
