This is a living document. Part 1 covers TroveBlade (TB) assembly. Part 2 covers frame and wall installation. Steps are numbered sequentially across both parts. General techniques you'll use throughout — T-nuts, tightening, choosing a board, Side-Safe setup — live on the separate Techniques page; link back here whenever they're relevant.
Several bolts are provided with the system, from left to right:
The cantilevers are ambidextrous. Before attaching, decide which side you want them on when facing the TB — left or right — and attach them accordingly. If your installation has a wall on one or both ends, read Techniques — Side-Safe Setup first — it determines which side you'll choose. It can still be changed later.
Both cantilevers are almost identical, but the top has an additional threaded hole for a Corner Bracket Gusset.
In this example, we use a metal pegboard with sliders on the right. Use the provided 3 M5×8mm buttonhead bolts with washers and sliding nuts per cantilever. Slide the nuts into the profile's slot and finger-tighten the bolts into the nuts. Make sure that the front of the board passes the slider's end.
For a standard installation where all TBs are the same height, collect all 2020 profiles with a threaded end — there should be 2 per TB, one with 4 holes on a side (the bottom cantilever's arm) and one without (the top cantilever's arm). Then:
Once the cantilever arms are cut, continue with installation.
Join both arms with 4 M5×18mm bolts and sliding nuts, threaded ends facing opposite directions. Slide 4 T-nuts into the joined arm. Attach both cantilevers to the joined arm using 2 M6×25mm bolts. Tighten 4 M5×18mm bolts.
This is the best time to verify TB's side positioning before adding more brackets.
Tighten 2 M6×25mm bolts.
Lay out the arms. Position the board/cantilevers assembly with the top on your left, facing away from you. Set the top arm (no side holes) in front, threaded-center edge to the left; set the bottom arm (4 side holes) closer to you, threaded-center edge to the right, socket heads facing up. Align both edges.
Join the arms. In the top arm, position the sliding T-nuts to line up with the bottom arm's 4 side holes, then set the bottom arm on top of the top arm. Drop 4 M5×18mm bolts through the holes and screw them into the sliding T-nuts. Leave them loose — the arms need to still slide against each other.
Oops, we forgot to film this part. Slide 4 T-nuts into the joined arm for a future Corner Bracket Gussets connection.
Attach cantilevers. Rotate the joined arm so the bottom arm is closer to you, then position the assembly against the board/cantilevers: the top arm's threaded hole aligns with the top cantilever's hole on the left, and the bottom arm's threaded hole aligns with the bottom cantilever's hole on the right. Insert M6×25mm bolts into the holes in the bottom and top cantilevers and screw them into the arm. Tighten them.
Check the movement. Move the TB assembly back and forth a few times to confirm it slides freely.
Tighten all 4 M5×18mm bolts.
Assemble 2 Corner Bracket Gussets using 8 M5×10mm bolts and sliding T-nuts. Finish by tightening all 8 bolts to make sure both cantilevers and the arms assembly are square.
The top TB cantilever has a threaded hole for an M5×18mm bolt. For security reasons, this connection is reinforced with a sliding T-nut as well.
Prepare 2 sliding T-nuts and slide one over the threaded hole.
Connect the Corner Bracket Gusset using M5×10mm and M5×18mm bolts. Make sure the back of the Corner Bracket Gusset is aligned with the cantilever's butt. Tighten bolts.
Connect the Corner Bracket Gusset to the bottom cantilever using 2 M5×10mm bolts, and make sure the back of the Corner Bracket Gusset is aligned with the cantilever's butt. Tighten bolts.
Open and close the sliders several times. Make sure they move freely without restriction.
Measure the distance between the lower part of the top cantilever and the bottom of the board. In our case, it's 30.5" — we'll use this to find the Top Frame Location.
Rotate the TB and tighten the board bolts in a cross pattern as shown.
Disconnect the inner rail of each ball-bearing slider — the part attached to the board — from the rest of the TB. This makes the TB much easier to handle during framing.
A heads-up before you start: if the wall in some of these photos looks like it's been through a few too many rounds, that's on us — it's what happens when you're prototyping dozens of different framings before landing on the one you're about to install. Please be careful; we didn't.
In our case, the top rail (2020 profile) is installed right above 30.5" from the bottom of the board. Where the bottom of the system sits is up to you — the simple kitchen rule is 35.5–37.5" (countertop included) for base cabinets, plus 18" to the bottom of the wall cabinets, which in our case is the bottom of the board. That puts the bottom of the board at 53.5–55.5". Add the 30.5" measured above, and you have your top rail location. Your setup isn't necessarily a kitchen, though, so this is a starting point, not a rule.
Use a level and mark this line across your wall — the top rail sits just above it.
You should receive 3 identical sets of 2020 profiles — top rail, bottom rail, and ceiling support. If the information you entered into the planner was correct, the number of profiles provided should match or exceed the required distance between the leftmost and rightmost studs. Ideally your studs were already marked before you entered their locations into the planner.
Assemble the top and bottom rails using the provided straight-line connectors — two per joint, on opposite slots. If you already cut these rails together with your cantilever arms in 1.2, they're the right length — just install them. If you didn't, measure your wall now, mark the rails to length, and cut them before continuing.
If you have straight-line connectors, position them on the top and the bottom. Find your studs and mark their locations on the top rail. Attach the top stud anchors at those marks using flat socket head M5×8mm bolts with washers, and finger-tighten them. You can attach the bottom anchors now, or wait and attach them later during TB adjustment — just make sure there's one sliding T-nut per stud in the bottom slot for the future bottom anchor connections. If a mark collides with a straight-line connector, remove the closest mounting screw and use that space as a nut for the stud anchor, top and bottom.
Calculate how many sliding T-nuts you'll need for the top rail in case its edges will be blocked during installation (a wall-to-wall scenario). For the front slot of the top rail, each TB requires 2 sliding T-nuts. Slide all T-nuts in.
Position the top rail right above the marked line. Use #14×3" lag screws to attach only the top anchors to studs. If you attached the bottom anchors, leave them as is for now.
Use two M5×10mm bolts to finger-tighten the top cantilever's Corner Bracket Gusset — acting here as a Frame Connector — to 2 sliding T-nuts in the top rail's front slot. Leave it loose enough to slide the TB along the rail for later adjustment.
If this TB is Side-Safe, slide it toward the wall and tighten all bolts.
Attach one more TB on the opposite side at its approximate location.
In our example, it's the left, since we have a Side-Safe TB there, and it's already set.
Check your planner for roughly where each one should be located, then finger-tighten 3 M5×10mm bolts for the top rail and 2 M5×8mm bolts for the bottom rail into sliding T-nuts.
Every stud gets two anchors — the lower one is already in place from Prepare the Top Rail. Wherever a stud now falls between two TBs, add its upper anchor too, with an M5×8mm bolt into a sliding T-nut.
If there is no interference between the TBs and the top anchors, finalize the top rail. Otherwise, see If a TB Meets the Stud, then finalize the top rail.
Add boards to the TBs. Make sure they open and close smoothly.
If there are TB Caches in your setup, add a Cache.
